FUNDAMENTAL HYDRAULIC CONCEPTS: Hydrodynamic background. Conservation of mass and momentum. Irrotational flow. Sea waves: some basic definitions and concepts. Irrotational and potential flow. (2 hours)

REGULAR WAVE THEORY: Governing equations. Boundary conditions. Linear waves. Assumptions and their validity. Simplified governing equations and their solution for velocity potential, propagation velocity and surface profile. Phase and group velocity. Wave energy and energy propagation. Waves of finite height . Stokes’ wave theory. Long wave theory. (8 hours)

LINEAR WAVE PROPAGATION OVER UNEVEN BOTTOM AND INTERACTION WITH STRUCTURES: Shoaling and refraction. Wave breaking.

Wave reflection and diffraction. (8 hours)

IRREGULAR WAVE MOTION: Statistical analysis of waves. Zero-crossing method. Gaussian distribution of surface elevation and Rayleigh distribution of wave height. Wave spectra. Amplitude and energy spectra. Spectral moments. Parameterized wave spectra for wind generated

waves: JONSWAP and Pierson-Moskowitz. Joint distribution of wave height and direction. Extreme value statistics. Extreme wave heights and asymptotic distributions. Measurement of waves. Wave and water level predictions. Phillips and Miles models. SMB method. (6 hours)

LITTORAL PROCESSES: Littoral materials. Effect of wave conditions on sediment transport. Radiation stress. Shallow water equations. Set up and set down. Cross-shore currents and long-shore currents. Sediment transport. Long-shore transport. CERC method. Deigaard and Fredsøe model. Cross-shore transport. Equilibrium profile. (10 hours)

COASTAL DEFENCE: Jetties. Breakwaters. Construction materials and design practices. Hudson formula. Van der Meer formula. Sand by-pass and nourishment. (8 hours)